Twelve days of Italy in a nutshell

From October 31 through November 11, I traveled by train through Italy. My lovely friends outside Zurich let me leave my fairly bulky duffel bag with them, and I hit the rails with a few changes of clothes in a backpack. Fortunately the weather was quite mild so I only needed a sweater and wind/rain shell in case of weather. I traveled very lightly, rewore clothes a lot (thank goodness for wool t-shirts) and did sink laundry a couple times! 

I had two goals for my Italian sojourn: return to Rome; see Pompeii. I didn’t have a return date in mind but figured it would be a week or so.

I did a lot more than that! Here’s how it shook out - six cities, 12 nights, 2 food tours, 3 walking tours, 3 museums, 2 fancy restaurant meals, 1 (negative) covid test/slight cold, innumerable Rick Steves audio walking tours (at least .. 8?) and one full day in the ruins of Pompeii!  

  • Monday Oct 31: train from Zurich to Milan; one night in Milan
  • Tuesday Nov 1: train from Milan to Venice; 2 nights Venice
  • Thursday Nov 3: train from Venice to Rome; 3 nights Rome
  • Sunday Nov 6: train from Rome to Naples, then local train* to Sorrento; 2 nights Sorrento, one day Pompeii
  • Tuesday Nov 8: local train from Sorrento to Naples then train to Florence; one night in Florence
  • Wednesday Nov 9: train from Florence to Turin; 2 nights Turin
  • Friday Nov 11: train from Turin to Zurich
That is a LOT of travel when you stick it together in a list like that. When you consider I was 5 weeks into traveling at that point, it’s even more amazing to think I had the energy - but on the other hand, perhaps I was recharged and in a good travel rhythm. And, I would never have planned a trip with so much hopping around if I’d been building it out far in advance. 

However - that’s the beauty (I’m learning) of having time available. When I left home at the end of September, my Europe plans were totally unformed and I thought surely I’d be home by the first week of November. By the time I hit Zurich on Oct 23rd I still hadn’t decided on my return plan. That’s the joy of one-way tickets and having a good-sized bank of air miles! By the time I left Zurich I had two (cancellable) one-way tickets booked home - one on Nov 11 out of London; one on Nov 20 out of Amsterdam. Those are the only cities with direct flights to Portland, and I knew I was going to want to do a single push and be done by the time I was going home. 

When I started my Italy leg I figured I’d see how the first few cities went/what I felt like doing. If I was kind of over it I planned to beeline to Rome and then Pompeii, but I found out pretty quickly I wanted to take a bit of time instead. 

I’ll get into details in the next posts. 

*I’m listing the Naples->Sorrento train separately because it was the one leg that was not obvious when I was making plans. The apps I was using for train travel in Italy - Trainline and Trenitalia - didn’t offer train connections to Sorrento. Turns out it’s a locally-run regional train line, and you just have to walk up to a ticket counter to buy a ticket. It’s technically in the main Naples train station, but was about a 15-minute walk underground to get to the tickets and boarding area. 


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